Synthesizer Build part-61: TRIPLE SLOTHS chaotic voltage sources.

The triple sloths by Nonlinearcircuits is a chaotic modulation source. It has 11 outputs that produce slowly changing voltages that follow a chaotic path. Great for generative patches and ambient music.

The module will fit in a Eurorack Nifty Case. I also made a layout for Kosmo sized modules.

This is a module I wanted to build for a long time and I finally got 'round to building it. This module produces random control voltages. We have 3 boards, Torpor, Apathy and Inertia. Torpor has the fastest changing voltages. It takes about 15 to 30 seconds to travel around 2 strange attractors, if you watch the plot on an oscilloscope set to X-Y display. Apathy takes about 60 to 90 seconds and Inertia takes about 30 to 40 minutes. Sloths cycles but it never repeats itself! It evolves.

Torpor and Apathy both have a potmeter. The potmeter doesn't change the frequency as you would expect but it changes the tendency of the waveform to be attracted to one or the other attractor. It nudges the waveform in a different direction you might say, that's why I labelled the potmeters 'Nudge'.

Inertia doesn't have a potmeter or a CV input. It just does it's own thing.

Torpor and Apathy have CV inputs, Most of the time a CV input signal will be added on top of the output signals of the module but it can also have the effect of changing the path of the voltages.

You can use an output from one stage to input into an other stage to get even weirder voltage paths.

We have an X, Y and Z output for each stage. Each of these outputs are taken from a different part of the circuit and the Z output is simply the inverted version of the Y output. The two extra Z outputs at the bottom are made up like this: V (Z3+) = Vz Apathy + Vz Inertia - Vz Torpor if greater than 0 otherwise it's 0V.

V (Z3-) = Vz Apathy + Vz Inertia - Vz Torpor if smaller than 0 otherwise it's 0V.

Beware that the voltages summed together can add up to + or -10V so attenuation on those signals would be a good idea.

The X outputs are the lowest in voltage. They stay between +/- 2.5Volt. It will cycle around the 0V line.

The Y outputs vary around +/- 5Volt. They will stay positive for a while and then go negative for a while.

The Z outputs are the same as the Y outputs only inverted.

With testing the Sloths on one board, I found the X output voltages of the Apathy and Inertia circuit much higher than +/- 2V. So I tried putting in voltage dividers but when I then mounted the board behind a panel the X voltages were suddenly too low. Really puzzling. 

I ended up taking out the 1K resistors to the X outputs of the two problematic circuits and putting in 10K trimmers on the copper side. That solved the problem because I can now dial in the voltages from the X outputs. I connected pin 1 of the trimmer to pin 1 of the TL074 (the signal source). The wiper of the trimpot went to the X output strip and pin 3 of the trimmer went to ground which is the strip below the output. See picture below.:

LAYOUTS:

Below are the layouts I made for this module. As always they are verified. I used them to build my module. We have a stripboard for each of the three stages and one for the extra two Z-3 outputs that mix the Z outputs from all 3 modules together.

Here is the overall layout showing all boards (Kosmo size layout further down). 

[EDIT] on Nov. 6th 2024 I made a slight alteration to the layouts. I routed the LED output through the left over opamp so that is doesn't pull down the voltage of the Z output.

There's not much room for the 1µF capacitors but it doesn't matter if the underside of the caps stick out above the resistors a bit as long as the leads are not touching other components. I put in higher value resistors as current limiters for the LEDs because the 470Ω ones recommended in the schematic made the LEDs shine awfully bright. I thought 1K8 would be better, and they are. All non inverting inputs (+) of the opamps in the TL074 are grounded so the strips that connect pin 3 to 12 and pin 5 to 10 must not be cut underneath the chip.

Here's the Torpor board:

Here's the Apathy board:

Here's the Inertia board:

And finally the extra Z outputs board:

You tap the Z inputs from the Z-outputs of the three boards.

I didn't make any layouts with just the cuts and wirebridges because these are such small boards that you can easily see where the cuts need to be made and where to put the wirebridges.

Do be aware that the Apathy board has an extra cut in it above the TL074 chip. All boards differ from eachother slightly so do pay close attention when working on them.

Here is the Bill of Materials. There are some very high value resistors needed for the Inertia board and I used Bi-polar capacitors on all boards so you need to order these new instead of putting them together by putting capacitors in parallel. I did leave room to do that at the top of the stripboards but it's easier to just order Bi-polar caps. I did have to make my own 100M resistor by putting ten 10M resistors in series and I used three 33M resistors in series to make the 68M resistor. My local electronics store didn't have them. I only had the 2 Watt versions of those so they took up a lot of space. I should have just used six 10M resistors in series for that one too. For the 1µF caps I ordered ten 1µF WIMA MKS box capacitors with 5mm distance between the legs. They are not polarized and work very well here although they are a bit bigger than round 1µF bi-polar caps, but it fitted well enough.

KOSMO SIZE LAYOUT:

Here's a layout I made later just in case you want to build this for a Kosmo sized setup. In that case you can have all three Sloths on one piece of stripboard and it gives you a little more space to place the capacitors too. Again I made a slight alteration to the previous version in that the LED output is now routed through the left-over opamp so it is buffered and can't pull down the Z output voltage.

This layout is also verified. I've just finished building this version too.

Use the extra Z outputs board posted above to add to this main board.

Sloths one board with extra Z outputs board. Cuts and wirebridges.

SCHEMATIC:

Because this is a kit that Nonlinearcircuits is selling to create income, I'm not going to post the schematic here. Instead I'm going to link to it on the Nonlinearcircuits website, because I don't want to negatively impact their revenue.

The link opens the Triple Sloths page and if you scroll down you'll find a green button marked 'build instructions' and if you click that you can download the PDF which also has the schematic in it.

--- CLICK HERE ---

If you do not want to build it on stripboard you can order the complete kit from nonlinearcircuits instead, with PCB's. That module will be 8hp wide. The one I made is 14hp wide because I needed more space to put three stripboards vertically behind the panel. The kit does require you to solder SMD parts unless you get a singel 4hp Sloth module which is through hole.

You can have a look at the schematic for the Torpor circuit in this Falstad simulation I made:

--- CLICK HERE ---

DIY BI-POLAR CAPACITORS.

If you are having trouble finding bi-polar capacitors, you can make your own. Below here is the schematic for a bi-polar cap made up of polarized capacitors.

The equivalent value of a cap made like this is the same as the value of one of the polarized capacitors, provided you use two caps of the same value. So for instance if C1 is 100µF and C2 is 100µF then the equivalent value of the bi-polar capacitor you created will also be 100µF because each of the two caps is used for one phase of the signal. One for the positive side and one for the negative side.

It might be a good idea to use Schottky diodes for D1 and D2 because of their lower voltage drop and I can not guarantee this method actually works. I just thought I'd mention the option but I haven't tried it myself.

 

Bi-polar capacitors are used a lot in audio speaker cross-over filters, so that is one place where you can start looking if you want to buy them new. I tried to Google them and had no problem finding them online. Just use the search terms: bi-polar, bipolair or audio capacitors.

OSCILLOSCOPE SCREENSHOTS:

Below are some screenshots I took during testing. You can see the random voltages at work. Yellow is X and blue is Y. You can see that Y has a higher voltage than X. The last one shows what happened when I put a triangle wave on the CV input of the Torpor module. The signal was added on top of the voltage. The first three screenshots below were are from the Eurorack version with the separate boards.

Here are some screenshot I took when testing the Kosmo sized stripboard with all three Sloths on one board. These are taken from the X outputs of the three boards.

This is over a timespan of 2 minutes. Yellow is Torpor, blue is Apathy and purple is Inertia. You can see the voltages are not all within +/-2V so I experimented with putting in voltage dividers but that didn't work out well.

This one is the same as the one above only with a timespan of 4 minutes.

Again you can see here that the voltage of the Apathy and Inertia X outputs is much higher than the Torpor X output. I don't know why this is the case because I checked and double checked. I switched IC's etc. but I couldn't find anything wrong.

Here's a series of three screenshots with the X,Y and Z outputs of each circuit after I put in the voltage dividers but before the board was mounted behind a panel. Here's the Torpor:

Apathy X,Y & Z:

Inertia X,Y & Z:

You may notice that there's not much difference over time in the waveforms, especially the last two but that occurs over time and in very small amounts. Try experimenting with feeding slow LFO signals into the CV inputs of Torpor and Inertia. You can use one output of Sloths to go into the CV input of another Sloths.

Z3 plus output:

Z3 minus output:

PICTURES:

Here are some pictures I took when building the Kosmo version:

I made the 100M and 68M from 10M resistors in series. I put small pieces of heatshrink tubing on the soldered ends where the resistors connect to eachother to prevent accidental short circuits. Then I hotglued the resistors in place. 

I didn't have a 39µF bipolar cap so I put in a 22µF (in the Inertia part) and added two polarized 10µF caps with diodes attached like I showed earlier in the article. I'm not sure if it has an influence. The capacity meter doesn't pick up the extra capacity because of the diodes but at least it is working normally.

With the 100M resistor made up of ten 10M resistors in series I added a center tap point that I connected to a copper strip that was not in use. I wanted to add a switch so I could half the resistance to make the Inertia part of the circuit work a little faster if I wanted to. That didn't work out though. It did go faster after closing the switch but the output voltage also shot up way too high. So do not replicate my experiment.

Here you can see how I mounted the Z outputs board. It is just floating. The main Sloths board is mounted by putting two sets of copperwire through the ground strip at the top and twisting and soldering them together and then soldering them to the ground connection wire or the sockets. The socket grounds are all connected together with one copper wire going through all the ground lugs of the sockets.

Here's a look at the finished panel mounted in the synth:

Below are some pictures from building the Eurorack version.

Here you can see the 'Inertia' board with the 100M resistor I had to make from ten 10M resistors in series. I made the 68M from three 22M resistors. These were big 2 Watt resistors. In hindsight it would have been better to have used six 10M ¼ Watt resistors in series.

Here are the three boards together. I soldered powercables to them for testing. When they were mounted behind the panel each board got power from the board beside it with simple daisy chained wire connections. You could use pinheaders but you'll need the extra high version.

One thing I noticed when testing, which is important to know, is this: I connected the Torpor module to my bench powersupply and it would only produce sinewaves but they weren't random. This turned out to be a fault in my powersupply. When I connected it to my synthesizer powersupply it worked normally.

Here you can see the backside of the module. Three boards tucked in together with the extra Z outputs underneath. The two outer boards are connected to the faceplate through the potmeter that is soldered straight to the stripboards. The Inertia board has no potmeter and it is mounted inbetween the two others and secured with hot glue.

Wiring these stripboards up was very time consuming. It took me almost a whole day. Because there is almost no access after the boards are mounted behind the panel, you have to solder the wires to the boards first. Put in all the sockets and ground them all. Then put in the boards and solder the wires to the sockets. To save space I soldered three wires to a Female Eurorack powerconnector and soldered the wires to the Torpor board. The other three boards get their power from the board to the left of it with again three wires. Be careful that non of the components touch the copper strips of the neighbouring boards. I put in gaffa tape and hot glue to protect some areas from short circuits.

Here's the finished module with the faceplate made with the waterslide paper method. Again I made a mistake. I forgot the two CV inputs. Well, there was room enough to put them in they are just not labeled. I called my module Sloth, not Sloths for no reason really :-D

Btw, these knobs are temporary. The ones I'm going to use are slightly larger but they are still in the mail.

When you start designing your panel layout make sure to offset the sockets a little from the potmeter positions. Don't put them straight underneath the potmeters because the stripboards will touch them. Put them slightly to the left. I did make that mistake and I had problems getting the boards to fit. 

And like I said before, don't forget to put in the CV inputs. ^_____^

DEMO VIDEO:

First a little demo I filmed myself with the following patch: Sloths Torpor X output goes into the 2hp Tune quantizer which turns the voltage into random notes following a chromatic scale then the 1V/Oct signal from the 2hp goes into the Digisound 80 VCO and from there into a 2164 Lowpass filter which has the cutoff controlled by Sloths Torpor Y output. Although that didn't come out very pronounced.

Here's a little demo of the Kosmo sized Sloths in action with the Torpor and Apathy X outputs controlling the filter cutoff of the TH State Variable Filter and the Lowpass Gate.

Here's a cool video I found on YouTube explaining how this module works:

TIP: lead the output of one of the sloths (the faster one like Torpor Y output) into the signal in of a Sample and Hold to get random stepped voltages like the Turning Machine produces.

Okay that's another one done.

If you have any comments or questions about this module then please put them in the comments below or in the special Facebook group for this website. Beware that comments are moderated and don't appear until I approved them.

Synthesizer Build part-52: 4 CHANNEL FEEDBACK EQ/DISTORTION (Monotropa) Eurorack.

A 4 channel feedback equalizer / distortion module that will fit a Eurorack system. 

I came across this circuit in a post on the LookMumNoComputer forum. Bpbby posted a Falstad simulation of this circuit and it intrigued me because I never heard of it before. He found the circuit on this website: www.reverselandfill.org

It's a pretty cool circuit. Simple too. We have 4 filters, each covering a part of the audio range, and then there's a feedback loop that connects the output back to the input. The circuit is called the Monotropa, which is the name of a plant. Don't ask me why. I don't see any logic in that. ^___^

Here's the schematic of this circuit:

Here is the Falstad simulation of this circuit:

--- CLICK HERE ---

LAYOUTS:

Here are the layouts I made for this project. They are verified as always. I built it for my Eurorack case but you can just as easy make this for a Kosmo sized synthesizer. I that case you could even build the 7 channel version because you'd have more space on the panel for the extra potmeters. Yes there is a 7 channel version of this circuit but you'd have to Google that. This article deals with the 4 channel version. This circuit is designed for +/-12V but I can't see why it wouldn't run equally well on a +/-15V powersupply.

Here's the wiring diagram. For the first time in the history of this website I show the potmeters from the back side! I should have done that all along because it's easier with wiring up the panel but there it is. I started out showing potmeters from the front in my layouts and for the sake of consistency I stuck with that, upto now. I had to connect some components straight to the potmeters and audio jacks to save space on the stripboard:

Below is the stripboard only view. The stripboard is small enough to mount parallel with the front panel behind the potmeters and sockets. You could drill a hole through the lower two strips which are not in use and use a standoff to mount it to the front panel. The wiring will also act as a stabilizing feature. I just used some plastic tube and hot-glued them to the back of the potmeters and to the copper side of the stripboard. That's secure enough. I soldered the powerconnector straight to the stripboard without using pinheaders and sockets. That way you only have 3 thin wires coming from the board with a Eurorack connector (female) on the other side to plug it in. If you want to use bypass/de-coupling caps there's room enough to solder those in over the powerrails and add some 10µF electrolytic caps if you want extra stabilization of the power supply voltage. These components are not in the layouts and are not listed in the Bill of Materials!

The Cuts and wirebridges as seen from the COMPONENT SIDE!!

Here's the Bill of Materials:

PICTURES:

Here's a look at the finished product:

Here are some screenshots from the oscilloscope showing the influence of the feedback on the output signal: 

And finally a little DEMO video I made. I built my version with 100K potmeters because that's all I had and consequently it doesn't sound as good as it could be with 10K pots. I assure you though, it is worth building but keep to the component values in the layout and schematics. Some potmeters are more effective than others depending on the frequencies that are put through this circuit because this is of course an equalizer. So a Low Frequency potmeter isn't going to have much effect on a high frequency bit of audio that's put through it. In the video I have it connected to a 555 VCO that is fed by the Sample and Hold of the previous project.

There's a useful tip in the comments below suggesting to use this EQ with a squarewave and then play with the Pulse Width Modulation of the squarewave in combination with the feedback of the EQ. That should sound pretty awesome!

Okay that's it for now. Not much of a write up I admit but real life issues got in the way. I might revisit this article later and expand on it. I hope you understand and don't mind. For now I just wanted to give you all the necessary layouts etc. to build this Feedback Equalizer. I already heard from one person who built it and he's very happy with it. If you have any questions please put them in the comments below or on the special Facebook Group for this website.

Synthesizer Build part-31: NOISE MODULE with 5 TYPES OF NOISE + Random Gates.

A very easy to build noise module with 5 different sorts of noise, two of them being 'Grainy' noise with adjustable graininess.  Works on dual 12V so Eurorack friendly.

(The Random Gates section is located half way down the article)

This is a module I adapted from the MFOS Noise Cornucopia schematic by Ray Wilson. It's turning out to be quite a popular project because I'm getting lots of feedback from people who built it and are really happy with it. Especially the addition of the Grainy Noise.

So, I needed a good noise source in my synth and this one seemed perfect. The original schematic has a random gates section which I didn't need but which you can easily add on if you want it. But I left that out. (I made a separate layout for the Random Gates Generator section which you can find further down the article) I also changed the transistor used to generate the noise and I changed the way the transistor is integrated in the circuit. My way is simpler and generates 200mV worth of noise right at the emitter of the BC547. The transistor's Emitter-Base breakdown voltage is exceeded thus the transistor is operating in avalanche mode, creating nothing but pure noise.
This was a one day build for me. I spent the morning adapting the design and making a stripboard layout. Then I built it in the afternoon and by 8pm that same day I had a good functioning noise module built into my synthesizer. The layout I made worked right from the start. No troubleshooting needed.
In the layout below the transistor is shown as a schematic symbol, and not as it's normally shown in the TO-92 package, to make it clear that the collector is not connected. In fact, you need to cut off the collector leg completely to stop it working as an antenna. I've put the pin-out of the BC547 in the layout to make this extra clear. You might need to choose a BC547 that gives you the best noise results. I heared through feedback comments that there can be differences between transistors but you should get noise with any transistor. It's just that some transistors produce more noise then others. I myself put in the first transistor that I had, and didn't choose between them. It worked fine as you can se in the video. Should you experience hum or something, from the power supply, then you should resort back to the transistor arragement in the original design as shown in the original Noise Cornucopia Schematic. 

Here is the verified layout.

(Last revised 16-May-2020: Added grounding wires to output jacks and pinout to noise transistor.)

Stripboard only. 

For extra clarity: connect the 'Base [B]' of the transistor to copper strip 'I' and the 'Emitter [E]' to copper strip 'G'.

The cut on position D17 in the layout above, has been moved to position D21 to make it more visible.

Below is an overview of the cuts and the wirebridges alone. This is seen from the component side! As ever, mark the cuts on the component side with a black waterproof marker and then stick a pin through the marked holes and mark them again on the copper side. Now you can cut the copper at the marks with a sharp hand held 6 or 7mm drill bit.

Bill of Materials. Instead of the TL084 and TL082 you can also use the TL074 and TL072 opamps:

Here is the altered schematic, made from the original Noise Cornucopia design:

Btw, if the BC547 doesn't produce noise for you, try a 2N3904. Remember it has the opposite pinout of a BC transistor. E and C are changed around. Not all transistors are created equally and some produce more noise than others.

The noise output from the transistor goes through a highpass filter consisting of the 100nF capacitor and the 2 MegaOhm resistor. This creates a filter cutoff frequency of 0.8Hz letting through all the frequencies and rejecting any offset voltage. Should you experience an offset voltage after the filter then lower the resistor value from 2M to 1M. That will make the cutoff frequency 1.5Hz.

I changed the 500K trimmer, used to set the amplitude of the noise, for a 200K panel potmeter so you can use it as a level control on the front panel. In my panel I used a 500K panel potmeter but that really is too high a value. When I turn the potmeter 1/3rd open, the amplitude reaches it's maximum at 10V peak-to-peak and the rest is just maximum volume and starting to clip, so I think it's better to use a 200K potmeter. (However I haven't tested it with a 200K potmeter) .

If you only have a 100K potmeter you can try changing R5 from 10K to 4K7 to get the gain right, and then it should work with a 100K potmeter. I've had confirmation that this solution works just fine.

To be honest, you don't need a gain option in a noise module like this, so you can just as easily forget about the Gain potmeter and put in a trimmer, set it so the output of pin 7 gives +/-5Vpp noise level and leave it at that. That's also how it was intended in the first place. The gain option was just my own idea.

The opamps used here are not critical. The schematic says to use TL074 and TL072 but I used the TL084 and TL082. I think you could even use an LM324 instead of the TL074. The pinouts are all the same. 

This module is designed to work on a dual 12 Volt powersupply (so ideal for Eurorack systems) but it will work equally well on 15 V.

How Grainy Noise works:

The Grainy Noise consists of very short pulses with an amplitude of plus and minus 5V. The Opamps IC2 a and b are set up here as voltage comparators which are being fed on the non-inverting inputs with white noise and on the inverting input with a voltage that can be set with the Graininess Potmeter to between 0V to + or - 8.25V (roughly). Each comparitor has a diode on the output so handles only one part of the voltage phase (either positive or negative). So if the voltage on the negative inputs is very high, the noise will only occasionally go over it and we'll get only a few Grainy Noise pulses. When the opamps are not producing a pulse they are at rest in either full positive or full negative voltage on the output pins but those voltages are being blocked by the diodes. So only the Grainy Noise pulses are being fed to the output. As you lower the voltage, the threshold will become lower and the noise will tip over the boundary more often creating more and more Grainy Noise pulses.

The 'Grainy' noise is a real asset to have. It's very useful because of its harsh sound. It sounds a bit like the noise you get from old TV sets. If you look at the scope image in the video you can see that most pulses from the Grainy Noise go into negative voltage. The more you turn up the Graininess, the more pulses you get that go positive and that's what is used to create random gate pulses. In fact only the positive noise pulses are used in the Random Gates generator and the negative ones aren't used because that diode has been left out. See the original Noise Cornucopia Schematic for that. The Highpass grainy output is a bit low in amplitude. That's not just in my build but other example videos show the same thing. Maybe a different type of capacitor would make it better but to really change it you should put it through an extra opamp and give it some extra gain but I didn't bother with that. I don't think I will be using that output much anyway. If you change the resistor to ground you also change the highpass filter so I don't think that is advisable to make it louder.

Btw, the LowPass noise is not exactly the same as Pink Noise in my opinion. The LP noise has more rumble (bass) in it I think but you may have a different opinion on that. I leave that open :) I think to call it LoPass and HighPass etc is more intuïtive than to assign different colour-names to the noise. It's also a useful type of noise to have because a lot of people prefer mixing LoPass noise into the signal path instead of white noise because the LP noise sounds less muddy.

RANDOM GATES GENERATOR:

I've made a separate layout for the random gates section of the MFOS Noise Cornucopia design, for those interested in adding this on. The two 7 pin headers are there to provide a choise in randomness of the Gate signal. See the original Noise Cornucopia article for the schematic drawing. The signal has the most randomness if you place the jumper on the lower settings. The higher up you go the less random the Gates get. 

NB.: Place only one jumper on the pinheaders!! 

If you have a rotary switch with 7 positions you could use that, instead of the pinheaders, and make a feature of it by placing it on the front panel. That's up to you. Let me just say also that I have not built this random gates module myself but I've gone over the noise cornucopia circuit schematic with great precision and it's a very simple layout so it should work fine. If you have built this layout please send me some feedback about how it's working. I've had some feedback saying if it doesn't work like it should to put a 2,7MOhm resistor in parallel over the 10pF capacitor.

Personally I don't find this type of random gate circuit very useful. It's not synchronized in any way and you only get one output with a random pulse train on it. I would prefer the Yusynth 8 Random Gates project where each pulse has it's own output. What I would prefer even more is to pair a Sample and Hold circuit with a noise generator like the one above. But it's all up to you of course. 

(Check the comments below to read about Tim's findings when he breadboarded this circuit to test if he could build it with 7 outputs instead of one.)

Here's the layout I made for this section: 

Here's a demo video I made with sound samples of the different types of noise:

And finally some pictures of the finished product. As you can see the finished module is very small. In fact it is only 3 centimeters wide so it won't take up much space in your modular set-up:

To finish I want to direct your attention to a great video by Moritz Klein about building noise modules where he explains the theory behind it very well.  Click here to see the video on YouTube.

Okay, that's number 31 done. A very satisfying build because everything worked right from the get go. Any questions or remarks? Please put them in the comments below or post your questions on the EB Projects Discussion and Help Facebook Group.