Sunday 29 December 2019

Synthesizer Build part-13: THE LFO (MusicFromOuterSpace version).

A very useful, good working and simple to build LFO for square-, sine- and triangle-waves plus a stepless transition between ramp- triangle- and sawtooth waves. A good LFO for beginners to build too. I still use this as my main LFO.

This is the Variable Skew LFO from MusicFromOuterSpace. It doesn't have a sync option but nevertheless it's a very useful LFO and it is in fact now the main LFO in my synthesizer. It's ideal for all the modulation duties in your modular synthesizer. I was allerted to an alteration that you can make to give this LFO a synchronization mode! That didn't really work for this LFO but more on that later further down the article.
This LFO has the following features: Stepless transition between Sawtooth to Triangle to Rampwave with one potentiometer. Sinewave. Pulsewave with changeable pulsewidth. Frequency control and a switch to go from High to Low frequency setting. 
Frequency Range with switch in 'HI' position = 1 wave every 2,39 seconds to 84 waves per second (239mHz to 84Hz)
Frequency Range with switch in 'LO' position = 1 wave every 7 minutes and 46 seconds to 1,43 waves per second (1,43Hz). The readings you will get will differ a bit from mine due to tolerance fluctuations in capacitor and resistor values.  
Squarewave pulsewidth (or dutycycle) goes from 1% to 99%. The pulse width of the squarewave is set with the same potmeter that controls the shape of the other waves. It also influences the shape of the sinewave. So it can be a bit fiddly to calibrate.
A very feature rich design and a design with very few components so not much can go wrong. It uses a TL084 quad opamp chip and a LM13700 OTA chip.
I even managed to add a little extra of my own design: normally this is a bi-polar LFO meaning all the outputs go from -5 to +5 volt but I added a uni-polar feature with two extra outputs for the saw-triangle-ramp wave and the sinewave that go from 0 to +10 volt. There was room on the circuitboard to put a little TL082 on and make the two inverting buffers with DC offset potmeters. I'm sorry there's no schematic for these additions, I did it from memory, but this feature is included in the stripboard layout. You can take a look at the 8 step sequencer V2.0 schematic which also has an offset feature of my own design and it's the same design as used here. Remember these 0 to +10V signals are inverted, so the waveshape potmeter works the other way around for these waves.
Unipolar LFO's are particularly useful for modulating the pitch of a VCO when you want to set the tuning very accurately.
This LFO is meant to be used with a -12V/0V/+12V powersupply but it works equally well on a -15V/0/+15V powersupply without any changes needed. The overall frequency range will go up a bit with a dual 15V powersupply of course.

LAYOUTS:
Here's the layout, wiring diagram (All potmeters viewed from the front). The layout is verified. I recently built a second one of these LFO's to use as a standalone signal generator and it all worked first time. There's an explanation of the colour-coding of the wirebridges on the layout. If you're wondering why C4 is 10pF instead of 100pF as it is on the schematic, it's a change that Ray Wilson himself made. You can read it in the original text.


(Last revised: 21-Jan.2021 Updated the old layout with some components re-arranged and got rid of a jump wire.  28-Aug.-2021: Cosmetic changes, got rid of resistor colour coding lines. 

Stripboard only:

Cuts and wirebridges seen from COMPONENT SIDE!!


Here's the schematic for the Music From Outer Space LFO. I put in a 100K potmeter for the Wave shape function instead of a 50K as is shown in the schematic. This doesn't make any difference. It'll work the same but put in a 50K if you have one. 
The timing capacitors are C1 and C2 (two 10µF electrolytic caps) switched in series with their negative poles connected together thus forming a 5µF bi-polar cap. This is used for the low frequency setting. The high frequency setting uses just C3, a 100nF capacitor.
Make sure all potmeters are linear types. You can see that only one half of the LM13700 is actually used so it would be easy enough to turn this into a dual LFO. All you need to do is duplicate the LFO circuit and connect it to the pins that lay directly on the opposite side of the 13700 chip. You'll need to make a new layout for that yourself though. A nice exercise in layout making ^___^ 



Bill of Materials. As mentioned earlier, C4 has been changed from 100pF to 10pF by Ray Wilson himself on the MFOS website, so that's why it's 10pF in the B.O.M.:



SYNC OPTION:
There is a circuit design available on the internet that will add a synchronization option to LFO's with a triangle core. I have tried that circuit on this LFO but the timing capacitors in this LFO design are too big for this to work. However it will work on other LFO designs from MFOS. I have linked to the schematics for the sync circuit below so you can check it out. There's also a link to a video by Rich Holmes from Analog Output who shows some changes he made to the circuit to make it work better with his LFO. Very useful to watch if you want to use this circuit with other LFO's.





CALIBRATING the LFO:
Calibrating the circuit should be very straight forward. Connect an oscilloscope to the sinewave output and manipulate the Sine shape trimpot until you get a symmetrical sinewave. Make sure the wave shape potmeter on the face plate is set half way. Turn the symmetry trimmer until the waves look the way they should.
Set the DC offset potmeter so the output reads 0 to 10V peak to peak on those two outputs. That's the bit I added on myself so it's not in the schematic.

Here's a high resolution picture showing oscilloscope screenshots of the different waves.



Here are some pictures of the stripboard with wirebridges and with components:


This is not the board I ended up using. If you look closely you can see the 10pF cap is over pins 6 and 7 instead of 5 and 7 on the left TL084. There may have been more mistakes on it, I can't remember but the layouts are absolutely 100% verified so don't worry about it.


Here's a picture of the panel I made for it. Like I mentioned earlier, it is combined with an AD/AR, the version that uses the 7555 chip. I used multi-coloured LEDs on the outputs to indicate positive and negative cycles of the outputs. There's no practical reason why I did that, I just thought it looked cool. I think every synthesizer module needs at least one LED :)



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31 comments:

  1. Question, in MusicFromOuterSpace, the C4 is a 100pF and you put a 10pF. Is it important ?

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    1. Well spotted. It makes no real difference. It's there to stop the opamp from oscillating on its own but put in a 100pF if you have one. I'll see if I can update the layout.

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    2. I've update all relevant images and the BOM. Thanks again for spotting it :)

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  2. I just saw that he put an update on December 24, 2002: Changed C4 from 100pF to 10pF. The circuit and board work fine.

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    1. I saw that too. I changed it back to 10pF and made a note in the text :)

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  3. So I finally did some measurements. At 24.8Hz and 10ms, the Square and Triangle/Saw are spot on. As for the Sin, no :D I used the trim pot to center the sin. That's good, work's perfectly. As for the trim pot Sin shape, it doesn't seem to change a lot. For now the Sin is a bit of a sin but the top and bottom peaks are more triangle then Sin. Not round at all. Do you have any idea ?

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    1. I'm sorry, it's been so long now since I built this LFO that I couldn't really suggest a solution for you. Maybe there's a small mistake you overlooked? The circuit should be able to provide a sinewave like you see in the oscilloscope pictures.

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  4. Well, checked every connection and component. All is well. So I just tried to turn way more the trim pot, I put 2 bournes since I had them in stock, for the Sin Wave shape and I finally got my Sin wave. The top is nice but the bottom still is a bit pointy. So I turned a bit more to be more round on the bottom and then the top flatten a bit. I found a spot where the bottom is a bit round and the top not too flat. Thanx for everything :-)

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  5. Ah so it turned out to be a resistance problem. I sort of had that in mind as a possibility. I've had potmeters that were rated at 100K but when I measure them they were only 80K. That happens a lot. I'm glad you found the solution. So, as I understand it, you put in two potmeters in series?

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  6. sorry, I wasn't clear :D My electronics is just like MFOS. The only thing that's not the same is the freq which is 100KΩ like you and not 50KΩ like MFOS.

    I was just talking about the 2 trim pots. I put 2 Bournes, one for centering and 1 for sin shape. The problem, is that I wasn't turning the shape trim pot enough :-)

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  7. Hallo Eddy,
    ich weiß nicht ob Du es bereits wusstest,oder ob Du es nicht benötigst,aber es gibt ein “Snyc Mod“ für den Mfos LFO von: https://github.com/holmesrichards/MFOS_VC_LFO
    Ich habe es gebaut und funktioniert super mit 2SK30 bei mir !

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    1. Oh cool! Oh cool! Ich wusste nicht, dass dies für diesen LFO verfügbar ist. Ich werde es in den Text einbauen und es natürlich selbst ausprobieren. Vielen Dank für diese Info!

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    2. Hast du das über die Pins 13 und 14 von IC1-A angeschlossen?

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    3. I'm building the circuit now, I'll finish and test it tomorrow. I made a layout for it using pinheaders so I can just click the sync board on the back of the LFO board without using wires. All I need is one input socket extra on the front panel. I look forward to testing it!!

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  8. ....ja ich habe es an den Pins des IC mit 2 Kabeln verbunden ! Es wurde unter anderen der 2N5458 empfohlen ,aber meine kamen aus China und funktionierten deshalb vielleicht bei mir nicht,ein ORIGINALER BF245A wollte auch nicht arbeiten. Der 2sk30 funktionierte bei mir sehr gut.
    Es ist ein kleiner Mod ,relativ schnell erstellt.
    Er hatte auch angaben gemacht um den PWM etwas zu verbessern.
    Freut mich sehr das Du was damit anfangen kannst :)

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    1. I used the 2N3819 but it didn't work very well. I'm going to try the other transistors too.

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    2. I tried a J-110 and that worked a little better but this only works if the LFO is in High Frequency mode when it uses a 100nF cap as timing capacitor. In Low Freq. mode it uses 2 10µF caps and they are too big to be influenced by a short pulse like this. The circuit was designed to synchronize VCO's (from the ARP Odyssey) so it's understandable that it doesn't work in Low Freq mode. Does yours work in Low Freq mode??

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  9. ....hier ein YouTube Video dazu;

    https://youtu.be/ZEw60w59Fb0

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  10. ...nochmal ich :)
    Hier wäre bereits ein fertiges Stripboard,,aber Du wirst sicherlich Dein eigenes erstellen,aber zur Info;

    https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNzse3ogFyzEbn942r3pylgqapGV--1GSAA5UcqiN99kJDGX3QcRrT1vork2CQo_0PLVEgs88qm84HTmFN-TjN4AcrlM4RTrjBC0U1eE4qF6QbrGbvkjMO3GaaePkXK9er7l8F73-mUyW26-essgmwcW5a1sITFig_KTKo1EBkwCrbo_4qB7krV1Au3w/s3205/MFOS%20LFO_SL2.png

    ...der Entkopplungskondensator ist etwas merwürdig,er geht von -12v zu +12v !

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  11. Hallo Eddy,,
    zur Zeit bin ich nicht zu Hause,aber ich werde es morgen intensiver testen wie gut mein Sync funktioniert !
    Du meinst mit Low-Frequenz sicherlich am Anfang der steigenden Flanke einer Säge zum Beispel (minus Bereich) !?
    Ich denke es ist auch relevant ob man echte JFET verwendet ,keine Fakes aus China,habe es schön öfter mal erlebt das es daran gelegen hat.
    Ich melde mich wieder !

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    1. With Low frequency I mean the low frequency setting of the LFO. It has a switch for low frequency and high frequency. With low freq. it uses two 10µF capacitors as timing caps and with high freq it uses a 100nF cap. In the high freq setting this works (sort of). with a J-110 N channel JFET. I can see the waveform shifting with every sync pulse but in Low Freq it doesn't work at all. My transistors are all good. I get them locally not from China.

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  12. ...in seinen Video zeigt er mit einen Ozilloskope das es auch im Low Bereich funktionieren soll.

    https://youtu.be/ZEw60w59Fb0

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    1. Yes I see. He made some changes. I'll try that myself

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    2. I tried it but it didn't work for me. And the 680 Ohm resistor got really hot. I Think I'll stop trying to get this to work.

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  13. Hallo Eddy,
    tut mir leid es nicht gleich verstanden zu haben,aber manchmal habe ich “ein Brett vor dem Kopf“ !
    Mir ist grade aufgefallen das ich über keinen “High und Low Schalter“ verfüge !
    Ich wußte damals nicht das Du bereits einen MFOS als Stripboard anbietest,also habe ich mir eine Platine geätzt,nach dieser Vorlage:

    http://musicfromouterspace.com/analogsynth_new/VCLFO200607/VCLFO200607.php

    Und Dein LFO von MFOS ist diese hier mit Schalter:

    http://musicfromouterspace.com/analogsynth_new/OLDIESBUTGOODIES/LFO/lfo-1.html

    Alles sehr verwirrend ! Sehe ich zum ersten mal das es von MFOS unterschiedliche LFO“s auf der Seite gibt !

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    1. Ah right, hahaha. We're talking about different LFO's here. No wonder there was confusion. That looks like a nice LFO too by the way. ^___^

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  14. ...vielleicht würde es besser funktionieren statt 2x10uf einen 4,7uf Folie Kondensator zu nehmen !?
    Aber ich kenne mich nicht annähernd so gut aus mit Elektronik wie Du,von daher vielleicht nur eine dumme idee von mir !

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    1. Well that would change the frequency range too much and I doubt the circuit is strong enough to reset even a 4,7µF capacitor. I just don't think this sync circuit will work with this particular LFO.

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  15. Bonjour Eddy, I build this filter to plug into the output of my Yamaha synth but no sound comes out. Is it because the line output signal is too weak?

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    1. This is not a filter. It's an LFO a Low Frequency Oscillator. I does not create audio. It created slowly changing Control Voltages.

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