One of the best sounding VCO's you can build, with 4 waveforms including Sinewave. It has excellent 1V/Oct. tracking. With a newly designed stripboard layout.
Welcome! I'm located in The NL. On my site I publish records of my DIY Modular Synthesizer Project. I build using the 20CM high 'Kosmo' format panels. All layouts are made by myself, the schematics they are based on come from all over the internet. If you're on a PC or MAC, there's a complete MENU in the sidebar. For mobile devices the menu is in the black 'Home' bar below this text. If you'd like to support this website you can use this link: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/modulareddy
Friday, 18 December 2020
Synthesizer Build part-37: THOMAS HENRY VCO-555.
Thursday, 5 November 2020
Synthesizer Build part-36: DUAL VOLTAGE PROCESSOR.
This is the Fonik Buchla Style Dual Voltage Processor. A very useful module for altering Control Voltages with four different functions. Offset, Attenuation, Inverter and Lag control.
I wanted a Voltage Processor module in my synth for a long time and I was thinking of copying the ARP2600 VP, but that one is fairly limited in its options and when I saw this design I thought it would fit much better in my system. This module lets you alter the offset of a control voltage by 0 to +5V or -5 to +5V. It lets you attenuate and invert a control voltage by means of a Attenuverter and it has a Lag control that is a direct copy of the Lag control from the ARP2600, with a 1 MOhm potmeter and a 470nF capacitor (The ARP used a 100nF cap). This alters the slew rate of, for instance, a Squarewave and rounds off the corners turning it into a Sharkfin Wave. In fact it adds a 90° phase shift to the signal. Besides control voltages this module can also handle audio signals.
Bill of Materials:
Here are some pictures from the build process:
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Thank you very much!
Friday, 30 October 2020
Synthesizer Build part-35: RESONANT LOPASS GATE (Buchla 292).
A combination of a Voltage Controlled Amplifier and a LoPass Filter using Vactrols. It has three modes and sounds amazing!
Resonant Lopass Gate:
To be honest with you, I had never heard of Resonant Lopass Gates before I held a poll on Facebook to see what people would like me to build for future projects. This was one of the options that was mentioned. It instantly intrigued me because I didn't know what it was. So I asked for schematics, did some research and started building one.
This module consists of three parts and there's a 'Mode' switch to switch between them. There's a voltage controlled amplifier or VCA and a lowpass filter (12dB) and the option to have both on at the same time. The VCA is nothing more than a voltage controlled attenuator and with the switch in VCA mode that is what you get. Now if you set the switch to 'Both' mode, you get the same VCA function but unlike a pure VCA not all frequencies are attenuated equally. Depending on the height of the Control Voltage the filter cuts off parts of the high frequency content of the input signal. If we now switch to VCF mode we have the full function of the lowpass filter including resonance (and it can self-oscillate) and the CV voltage determins the cut-off frequency of the filter. The VCA part is no longer working in this mode but we still get a mixture of changing cutoff frequencies and changes in amplitude driven by CV voltage and the CV input also affects the amount of resonance that is put on the audio signal. It's very complicated and I can't explain it very well but it makes for a very special sounding module. Because it works best with a constantly changing CV input, the module produces more of a percussive, pulse like sound. At least, that's where its strenght lies. (See demo video lower down the article for sound samples) The CV inputs can be anything from a Gate signal to an Envelope signal or an LFO. You can experiment with what sounds best. I think it's better to have signals going into both CV inputs at the same time. The CV 2 input has an inverter connected to it in the form of opamp U2-A, The more you turn it clockwise the more the CV signal gets inverted. This is one of the changes that has been made (by Thomas White) from the original design as described in the 'modularsysthesis' article in the link below here, which I incorporated into the redrawn schematic. It works very well.
Here's the schematic drawing that I re-made from the schematic on 'modularsynthesis. It has all the changes that are suggested in the linked article implemented. (Click on the image to enlarge it and then right-click and 'Save as' to save it to your computer. Then you can zoom in on it.) :
I did not use any de-coupling capacitors on the two IC'S but if you want them included, or if you're having trouble with noise from the powersupply, than just put a 100nF ceramic cap between the plus and ground and one from ground to minus 15V and as close to the chips as possible You can also put some 10µF/25V electrolytic caps on the power rails to suppress any hum. The 'Deep' switch is a normal SPDT toggle switch (ON-ON). If you turn it on, the sound will be deeper with less high tones. It has the effect of turning the 'Offset' knob counterclockwise. You can set the amount with the trimmer Tp2. The MODE switch needs to be a 3 pole ON-OFF-ON switch and I have colour-coded the connections so you can easily see what goes where. The 3 by 3 diagram represents the bottom pins of the switch. You can see it all connected in the layout below. The switch needs to have a middle position and in that position none of the 3 connections in the schematic are made, so they are all open. This is the 'Both' mode and is how it should be although it may look a bit weird at first. You can also use a 3 position rotary switch of course but it will have to be a 3 pole, 3 position rotary switch. I myself used a vintage 6 pole 3 way switch I had in my junkbox. I had four of them and used two of those in earlier projects. One in the Digisound 80 ADSR and one in the Steiner-Parker filter.
The layout I made for this module worked rightaway but I did some experimenting with the Vactrols. I ordered a batch of VTL5C4 vactrols and they have now arrived but the Vactrols I made myself seem to work so well that I'm hesitant to replace them. I made mine from 5mm red LEDs and LDR's that had an 'off' resistance of over 200MOhm and with a bright white LED shining on them the resistance was about 200 Ohm. I later soldered a 3mm red LED in parallel over the vactrol LED on the left to dim it a little, because I found out that sounded better. I made some Vactrols earlier and used bright white LEDs in them but although they did work, the LEDs hardly came on because the maximum voltage over them was about 2,7 Volt which was too close to the threshold voltage of those LEDs. The red LEDs will shine full on with that voltage which works much better. (So because the LEDs in the Vactrols are part of the circuit and not connected directly to a powersupply they don't require their own current limiting resistors.)
The picture below is the wiring diagram. The module is meant to work on a dual 15V powersupply but it will work fine on a dual 12V powersupply (Eurorack) . I did notice a bit less self-oscillation in the resonance when I tested it, but it still sounded amazing and you can still get that cool sharp synthesizer sound out of it. You might be able to get the resonance back up with the 20K trimmer but I didn't try that. One other thing, I built this module using two TL074 chips, not the TL084 as mentioned in the layout. It doesn't really matter which of the two you use where. It's up to you. As always the layout is verified. I used it to build my module and I already had confirmation from others who built this successfully. All potmeters are viewed from the front with the shaft facing you.
Here's a video demonstrating the sounds you can get from this module (listen with headphones to get the best effect). When I say "In 'Both-Mode' you don't get Resonance" what I mean is that you don't get self-oscillation in 'Both-Mode'. Resonance still works.:
It would be very cool to have three or four of these Resonant Lopass Gates in a modular synthesizer set-up and to use them partly as VCA's with a twist. You can do some really cool things with this module, I know that. But I myself haven't figured out yet in how many ways you can use this.
Okay, that's it for now. As always, put any questions you might have in the comments below or on the facebook group.
If you would like to support my work and this website you can do so by buying me coffee. There's a button for that under the menu if you're on a PC or Mac. Or you could donate a few bob by clicking here Even a small donation will be a great help and all donations go towards buying components. Thank you so much! See you on the next one!
Friday, 18 September 2020
EDDY BERGMAN DIY Projects Help and Discussion Facebook Group.
I have set up a Help and Discussion Facebook group for the projects on this website. If you have any questions or encounter problems while building one of the projects, or even if you just want to know how something works, then you can post your question(s) on the Facebook group page. If you're located in the United States, Canada, Australia or in the Azian part of the world, you might even get an answer quicker than if you asked me directly because I'm in the Central European Timezone (The Netherlands) and the members of the EB Facebook Group span the whole planet. And within a few days of setting up the group, it already had 50+ members and one and a half months later it passed the 100 members point, of which I'm very proud and thankful.
I've made the group 'public' so anyone can read it, even without having joined first, but I hope of course that you will join. I don't think you'll be overloaded with posts from this group so don't let that stop you. I will of course remain available personally for questions as I always have been, but because the website is gaining somewhat in popularity I was advised by Jonathan, the Admin of the LMNC group, to start this Facebook Group and I thought it a very good idea. So here we are. I hope you'll benefit from joining this group and I hope your enjoyment of building the projects available here will be greatly enhanced by this group.
Here's the link: https://www.facebook.com/groups/325860521842129
Tuesday, 23 June 2020
Synthesizer Build part-34: TRIPLE WAVEFOLDER.
I came across this project on YouTube when I watched a video by YouTuber Adamski A. called "DIY analog synth project part 18 - The Wavefolder".
So I set about building it and it came out very well so I asked Adam for permission to write an article for my website, based on his project, to which he very enthusiastically replied in the affirmative so here it is; The Triple Wavefolder.
Like I said, it's a very simple design and in my experience those work the best. This wavefolder produces sounds that I would describe as sharp or hard and accurate. In some settings it almost resembles a Harpsichord or an electric piano. They can be real speaker rippers too. If you watch Adam's video (see link above) you can listen to the wavefolder in action. The latter part of the video is full of sound samples in different settings. I also made a little demo video myself which is at the bottom of this article. The sound is very different from that of the filters we've become so used to, with their resonance and cut-off frequency. It sometimes almost sounds like an FM synthesizer. That's why this is a very useful addition to any modular set-up because diversity in sound is what we all want don't we?
Now, I built the Yusynth Wavefolder after first building this because I thought that this triple wavefolder was more of an experimental thing and the Yusynth one would be the official implementation to go into my synthesizer. But the Yusynth one only has a single folding stage and eventhough that sounds amazing too, I found that this one actually sounded even better. So I made a panel for it and mounted it in my synthesizer. Btw, you can add as many wavefolding stages as you wish to this circuit. You can easily build this on a breadboard and experiment with the number of stages. The voltage it runs on also influences the number of folds you can get so changing the value of the 22K resistors going to the emitters of the transistors also influences the behaviour of this circuit.
This wavefolder works best with Triangle or Sawtooth waves or even Sinewaves but Squarewaves pass through almost unchanged. That's convenient because squarewaves are best used for conventional filters because they have the most harmonic content.
This wavefolder has in it's original form only three controls; the input level or 'Amount', the Dry/Wet control and a Saturation control. As an experiment I added voltage control to two of those, the Amount and Saturation by means of two self-made Vactrols connected between pins 2 and 3 of the respective potmeters.
These vactrols are made up of a bright white LED, a Light Dependent Resistor (LDR) and a 2K2 current limiting resistor connected together with some heat-shrink tubing that seals it off from any light from the outside.
These Vactrols both have their own level potmeter too so you can dial in the effect it has very accurately. I've had questions about what LDR's you should order for these and I really can't tell you. I had mine in stock for ages. A while back I ordered a batch of 5 x 10 LDR's from China. 5 different values with 10 of each value. They all have a dark-resistance of at least 100 Mega Ohm and a full light resistance around 1 Kilo Ohm or lower. That's all I can say. You can also buy Vactrols ready made like the VTL5C3 which should work fine here.
The other thing I addressed was the fact that the Amount control is also the Amplitude or Volume control so turning it up increases the volume and turning it down decreases it. For that reason I added a Gain potmeter to the output opamp which increases the volume by a factor of 2 to 22 times!! This option is a game changer for this wavefolder especially with this much Gain! This gives you the possibility to really boost the sound output and it sounds awesome I can tell you. You can really boost the lower and mid ranges of the Amount potmeter to match the high output level when Amount is fully open. I even found that opening up the gain helps to level out the output amplitude across most of the Amount potmeter throw without really clipping the output. But even if it does clip, it adds a very musical sort of distortion to the sound. It's never unpleasant to listen to.
Here's the schematic drawing of the Triple Wavefolder by Adamski A. I have re-drawn it and added the Vactrols to it. I mention on the schematic that you can also use BC transistors instead of the 2N transistors I used, but that will influence the sound or the number of folds you get because BC transistors have a greater multiplication factor. You can of course experiment with that by setting up the circuit on a breadboard first. (Btw, the BC548 and BC558 can also be BC547 and BC557 types.) The CV-Level control potmeters are not included in the schematic. This is because I added the CV control as a bit of an after-thought to see how it would work out. Like I mentioned before you don't have to include the Vactrols and CV level controls. I leave that up to you.
Here's the stripboard layout. It's verified because I used this for my own build. All potmeters are viewed from the front side with shaft facing you!
(Wiring diagram):
Print only. Note that pins 5 and 10 of the TL084 are connected underneath the chip!!:
Bill of Materials.
As you can see a very simple and easy to build project and it sounds amazing so I can really recommend trying this one out. The circuit is meant to work on a dual 15V powersupply but I tested it on 12V and it works just fine but changing the voltage does influence the number of folds you get so it sounds a bit different but it still works fine, trust me =)
I did not include any de-coupling capacitors in the schematic because I didn't use any but if you need to have those included just put a 100nF from plus to ground and a 100nF from ground to minus and place them as near to the TL chip as possible. Should you have problems with hum, you can also add a few electrolithic caps (22µF or 33µF) on the plus and minus rails like the other caps and you can also try putting Ferrite Beads in series with the plus and minus power supply input, or if you don't have them, a few 10 Ohm resistors. There's plenty of room on the stripboard for that. But you only need to do that if you're having problems with hum or noise in the audio output.
Here's a picture of the finished panel:
Here's a look at the stripboard: I see from these pictures I added an extra opamp to the output but because I actually built this module a while ago I can't remember why I did that. Probably to have more room to experiment with the output and add the Gain potmeter. Anyway, it works the same so you don't have to include that.
And, to close off this article, I made a video demonstrating the different settings and the sounds they produce. As you can read in the article, I recently changed the GAIN potmeter from a 20K into a 100K one giving a total gain of up to 22 times. This gives the option of boosting the middle range of the Wavefolder which sounds really awesome!!
Okay that's an other project done. I hope you enjoyed it. Check out Adamski A. 's youtube channel. It is full of awesome synthesizer projects and electronics tutorials. It's an enormous source of inspiration for anyone interested in building synthesizers.
Friday, 22 May 2020
Synthesizer Build part-33: DIGISOUND-80 ENVELOPE GENERATOR with AS3310.
This Envelope Generator or ADSR is a very luxurious one because it produces three different types of envelopes. The following description is from the original text for this module:
First there's the 'Damped' mode. The object of this mode is to more closely simulate the piano envelope which has a sharp attack, a brief initial decay, a long release and finally a very short release as the damper is applied to the string. So it's an ADRR response and in this mode the end of the gate pulse causes the final short release to occur. In other words releasing the note has the same action as applying the damper on a piano.
In 'Normal' mode the ADSR functions as any ADSR would with the duration of the Sustain period being equal to the duration of gate signal being present and the key being pressed down.
The 'Automatic' mode is particularly beneficial when envelopes are being initiated from non-keyboard sources like an LFO or from a clock signal. A short pulse will now generate a complete ADR envelope and, by adjustment of the time constants, this type of envelope can be made to approximate the ADSR type envelope. Usually these external sources would only generate a limited AD type of envelope.
Further features of this envelope generator are:
- Independent trigger input for re-triggering and generating multiple peak envelopes in the Damped and Auto modes.
- Gate and Trigger pulses within a range of +3V to +15V are acceptable.
- Wide range of time constants. Typically 2 milliseconds to 20 seconds. If longer times are needed you can increase the value of C9.
- 0 to +10V peak attack output
- 0 to 100% Sustain level.
- Low control voltage feedthrough which means low residual voltage when the envelope cycle is completed thus ensuring that the VCA is off.
- Manual gating facility.
Features I added:
- Extra buffered envelope output.
- Extra inverted envelope output (0V to -10V).
Dual 12 Volt operation:
This envelope generator is designed to run on a dual 15V powersupply but I tested it on a dual 12V supply and it works just as well with only a very small loss in envelope voltage. On 12V the envelope is about +9V so no problem running this on +/-12V. One change should be made however; the current limiting resistor R25 should be changed from a 750 Ohm to a 470 Ohm according to the datasheet of the AS3310. However I test ran it on dual 12 Volt without changing the resistor and it worked perfectly fine.
I had build this envelope generator some time ago and I've been using it in my synthesizer for all that time but I didn't write an article about it until now because there was something wrong with it. In the 'Normal' mode, which is the one you'll be using most I think, the Decay was oscillating. It kept on being triggered for as long as a gate signal was present. The only way to stop it was to turn up the Sustain level so it matched the Attack level and then you wouldn't hear the constant up and down oscillation of the volume level.
So I was using this ADSR with Sustain turned up but it annoyed me that is wasn't functioning quite right because this is an awesome ADSR and I wanted to do an article on it. So I asked on the Synth DIY Facebook group what could be causing this. I was told it was due to capacitor C7 and that I should remove it. They were absolutely right. Removing C7 did the trick, at least in the 'Normal' mode but when I switched to 'Damp' or 'Auto' mode the ADSR was hanging. It wouldn't go into the Release state. So for these two modes capacitor C7 needed to be in place.
By happy coïncidence I had used a vintage double pole 3-way switch to switch between the different modes and I had one pole left unused. So I connected the capacitor to that switch in such a way that it was connected in 'Damped' and 'Auto' mode and disconnected in 'Normal' mode. This worked fantastically and now it behaves just as it should do. Should you want an oscillating Decay in 'Normal' mode you could easily add a switch to connect C7 again. Now you have the choise between the two. (This option I leave to you. It is not documented anywhere in this article).
All these changes have been drawn into the layout and into the new schematic that I made.
I used a SPDT toggle switch to go between manual gating and inputting gate signals. This is marked in the schematic as a gate input socket with internal switch, which you can of course also use instead of an external switch.
One little thing you need to be aware of with this ADSR is that I you need to switch to Auto mode whilst holding down a key on the keyboard. If you don't do that, then the ADSR only gets triggered (in Auto mode) if you push the manual trigger button but not by the keyboard. I think that's meant to be though because Auto mode is for external sources so that would make sense. If however you switch to Auto mode whilst holding down a key then it will work with the keyboard. Any key you press after switching it on will keep sounding until you press an other key and it will keep sounding until you switch back to Normal mode. Once you get used to this it's actually not a problem at all. Just something to be aware of.
If you plan on building this ADSR you might just build it first like it was intended with C7 connected to pin 7 of IC1-B and without connecting C7 to the second pole of the 3 Way switch. In the stripboard layout it's simply a matter of connecting the 10nF cap between pin 2 of the LM358 and the strip directly underneath the LM358 which connects it to pin 7 via a wire bridge. Then it's back to how it was originally. Should you encounter the same problems I had then you can make the same alterations I did and have it function perfectly that way. Instead of a double pole 3-way (rotary) switch you can use a single pole one and if you need C7 to be disconnected in Normal mode, just use a little toggle switch for that. Double pole 3-way switches can be expensive unless, like me, you have some lying about in your junk box.
Here's the new schematic drawing that I made and used for my build with C7 connected to switch S1-B. (That's the only difference to the original schematic) :
This is a re-drawn version of the original Digisound-80 schematic, without any changes. You can use the "J" and "K" keys on your keyboard to quickly switch from one picture to the other so you can easily see the changes (only on a Mac or PC).:
Here's the verified stripboard layout. The changes I made are implemented in the layout but if you connect the lower pin of C7 one strip higher, you can do away with switch S1-B and everything is back to how it originally was, so the changes (if needed) are very easy to make.
BEWARE! All IC's are mounted with pin 1 to the lower right!
Wiring diagram:
Bill of Materials:
CALIBRATION:
RV6 is more for polyphonic systems and for normal use it can be left in the middle position.
Here's a screenshot of the oscilloscope that illustrates the oscillating Decay problem I had in the beginning:
Here are some screenshots of the different modes of this ADSR:
This is the Damped mode with short and continuous key pressing:
You can see that every time you let go of a key an almost instantaneous release kicks in and kills off the note.
Here's the 'Automatic' mode with the same quick key presses:
Here you can see that letting go of the key will not stop the envelope. It will go through its complete cycle even if no gate signal is present. If you press a key before the cycle is finished it will start at the beginning again as you can see at the right side of the waveform in the screenshot above. This way you can create multiple peaked envelopes by re-triggering the ADSR.
Finally here's a shot of the normal ADSR mode:
I'm really glad I was able, with the help of the Synth DIY group, to get this envelope generator working like it should at least in Normal and Damped mode. I do have one little quirck with mine. I can only use Auto mode if I switch from Normal to Auto while holding down a key on the keyboard and then the envelope is constantly retriggered so it functions as an LFO. Personally I find this very useful so I'm keeping it like this but let me know in the comments if yours does the same and/or if you found a solution for this.
Here are some pictures of the module and print. The first one was taken after I installed it in the synth and the second one after I just finished the build. You can see that I put in a lot of output jacks for the envelope. It's always useful to have a few extra I think. The top two outputs are switched in parallel over the ADSR output and the bottom two are switched in parallel over the extra output on the stripboard. Below the inputs for Gate and Trigger there are two more sockets. They are Gate and Trigger outputs. They are each switched in parallel over their respective input sockets. I later added a yellow LED to have a visual indication of the envelope. The LED is soldered over one of the extra ADSR output sockets using a 15K resistor as current limiter so as to not influence the envelope voltage and to make sure the LED doesn't shine too bright:
Here's a link to the Electro-Music Engineer PDF article by Charles Blakey about this module:
http://www.digisound80.co.uk/digisound/other_documents/doc_files/1981-12_EM_Eng_CEM3310.pdf
Here's the original Digisound article in PDF form, about this ADSR:
http://www.digisound80.co.uk/digisound/modules/80-18_files/80-18.pdf
In the original Digisound modular synthesizer this is actually a dual ADSR:
http://www.digisound80.co.uk/digisound/modules/80-18.htm
Okay, that's number 33 done. If you have any questions please post them on the Eddy Bergman Projects Discussion and help Facebook Group, or the comments below or contact me directly.
See you on the next one!